Some of our favourite YouTube natural hair gurus

Yay for the weekend! There's nothing we like better than passing a Saturday or Sunday afternoon watching natural hair styling videos on YouTube.

If you're looking for some weekend kinkspiration, look no further than these 10 lovely ladies whose videos always inspire new styles. So sit back, grab a cuppa, & check out some of our favourite natural hair gurus!

Locs 101: New Growth: Interlocking Vs. Palm Rolling

Ok, so this was promised 2 Mondays ago. No explanation or excuses, let's just get straight into Fiona's post:

Guest blogger Fiona

Hey peoples! I know my post is overdue (blame Nibi!) but better late than never, non?

Let’s jump right in….

New Growth: Interlocking Vs. Palm Rolling

Maintenance is an important part of having healthy locs and part of loc maintenance is the regular re-twisting of your new growth, which ensures that the hair continues to loc.

The palm rolling versus interlocking debate can be a heated one and varies wildly depending on whom you speak to. I have spoken with locticians that favour one and disparage the other and some that use both techniques. The main issue, as I see it, is lack of proper “how-to” knowledge, either on your part or your loctician’s, leading to damaged locs. Don’t be fooled into thinking that everyone that dons the title “Loctician” knows what he or she is doing.

So what is the proper way to re-twist new growth? I think this boils down to personal preference; both techniques have their pros and cons. Palm rolling will give you a lovely cylindrical look, while interlocking produces a ropeier but tighter loc – no unraveling. I started my first set of locs with palm rolling and eventually switched to interlocking (myself), as I had a lot of slippage with the locs in the middle of my head. This time round I do both, interlocking every 2 to 3 months and palm rolling as needed.

The procedure for palm rolling is exactly as it sounds: rolling the loc in your palm, with the aid of a light gel, loc butter or even plain old water. The key is to always, ALWAYS roll your locs in the same direction in order to train your roots and to avoid warping the rest of the loc.

Palm rolling is demonstrated in the video below, but note she doesn't discuss direction, washing or clipping after you roll (not that clipping is a neccessity):
 

Interlocking can be done with your fingers, a latchhook or crotchet needle, using a 4 point or 3 point method i.e. passing the tip of the loc through the root (as if it were a clock face). Enter the loc at 3 to 9, 12 to 6, 9 to 3, 6 to 12.  (3 point: enter from 9 to 3, 12 to 6, 3 to 9). 

For all the "visual learners", interlocking is demonstrated here, however note she doesn't discuss the small flyaway new growth or what happens if you go the wrong way when interlocking. She also suggests you only complete one rotation, which is great if you only have a little bit of new growth but otherwise, you'd have to keep going till you get close to the root (without over tightening):

The point is to NEVER pass the tool in the same direction, as this will leave a "Y" part at the roots that you definitely do not want. Essentially, you will have split the root into two. I made this mistake once; with my first set of locs and boooooy was it a complete   [insert expletive]  to undo. After creating the Y, in an effort to back track, I ended up making a knot at the root of my loc. I did eventually unravel it, after much cursing and a temper tantrum that would have made any toddler proud!

With either technique you need to be gentle with your locs. Don’t over twist with palm rolling or interlock too tight, as this will lead to a painful scalp or worse, weak and or broken locs.

Re-twist Bantu Knot Out Experiment

Due to a bout of extreme laziness, (don’t judge me, it happens), I decided to try a clip free method of palm rolling. After washing my locs, I sectioned into four bunches and then palm rolled each loc before twisting into a Bantu knot.

I wore the Bantu knots for two days and then pulled them out into a new curly do. I admit that despite my initial apprehension of too much forehead with the Bantu knots and medusa curls on the pull out, I quite liked the end result with both stlyes. 

Until next time...

Don't forget to follow Fiona on Twitter @fifipommes

Kinky Hair 101: All about locs

I am often asked for loc advice, but as I've never had them, I can't really give any. Thank goodness for Fiona, who has agreed to step in as a regular guest blogger on everything to do with locs.

Guest blogger Fiona

Hopefully most of you will have caught my introduction last month on the Kinky Apothecary blog. My aim as a guest blogger is to talk about everything locs related. Whilst currently on my second locs journey, I am by no means an expert, nor am I a loctician. I am, however, often knee deep in research on styles, products and maintenance practices, as I generally prefer to do my hair myself (despite my, sometimes, extreme laziness when it comes to said hair. I know you know what I’m talking about).

To loc or not to loc?

Personally I see my hair as an accessory and am prone to experimenting with different styles, colours and lengths (including shaved bald). My choice to loc up the first time was purely aesthetic. I have a few friends that have been loc-ed for what seems like eons and I loved the way their hair looked and felt.

I researched for about three months before finally taking the plunge and intitally was plagued by thoughts of what my parents would say. I believe at your birth, parents are magically imbued with the ability to cause extreme anxiety in their offspring with a single raised eyebrow, even when said offspring is a grown ass woman. My approach was ‘say nothing till they notice’ and having chosen to start my locs using the comb coil method; I managed to get away with it for a few months before my mother asked what was going on with my hair. This time round, my parents are still not in love with the idea but I’m a little older, I care a little less about their reaction and well…I’ve done it before and as I recall, the sky didn’t fall.

The main character traits you will need if you are going to embark on a locs journey are patience and acceptance. It takes a while to get fully loc-ed and you will need to learn to embrace and be confident with the new forms and stages that your natural hair will go through.

Mysconceptions

You can’t wash your hair.

This one still baffles me. Yes you can and absolutely should wash your hair or it will get filthy and people standing close to you will scrunch up their faces in reaction to the odour.

Locs require no maintenance.

For most of us this is not true. Unless you are choosing to completely freeform, you will need to twist or coil your hair to start them off and then to re-twist your roots to keep your locs maintained.

Locs are unprofessional.

*sighs like a steam engine*

As long as you wear your locs tidy and in a work friendly style there is absolutely no reason why your hair should not look professional. This is a tricky one in countries like Nigeria where having natural hair in any form can lead to you getting the side eye from colleagues.

It’s funny how a ratty looking weave that should have been taken out a month ago can sometimes be seen as more acceptable than a tidy natural updo. All I can say to that is keep it looking neat and tidy and keep fighting the good fight.

Chescaleigh is one of my favourite locs video bloggers; check out her response to the ‘unprofessional locs' question here. 

You have to shave your head if you decide you no longer want locs.

Whilst shaving your head will definitely make the whole process much faster, you don’t have to go bald to remove your locs. You may, however, have to cut the locs to a manageable length to begin unravelling the hair. It is a very time consuming process and personally I was just too lazy to do it. I had about two inches of new growth, which I cut my hair down to.

Loc Stages

Your locs journey will take you through five stages: starter locs, baby, teenage, mature and rooted

Stage 1 -Starter Locs

And so it begins…  Depending on how you choose to start the locing process, your hair will be in two strand twists, comb coils, single braids or loc extensions. People won't notice a difference yet and may even ooh and ahh at your cute hairdo.

Starter Locs: Source

Stage 2 - Baby Locs

Also known as “sprouting” or “budding”. Individual comb coils/twists/braids may seem puffy as the hairs start to intertwine. It is important to keep the original scalp partings, to maintain neat and (as near) uniform locs in the later stages. Try to avoid redividing and overtwisting at this stage, they are meant to be puffy and will settle down later. Care has to be taken during shampooing not to unravel the hair. People will begin to notice and ask if you are locing up. Personally, I enjoy the baby phase; they are a little fuzzy but they look cute.

Baby Locs: Source

Stage 3 – Teenage Locs

As the name suggests, your locs are a little older, they are starting to form but also have a mind of their own! The intertwining extends further down the loc, causing some to drop but some will still be loosely meshed and choose to defy gravity. Fewer locs will unravel during shampooing. At this stage you are learning to re-tighten the base so it will look neater.

This is a real love/hate stage. There will be days when you adore your hair; followed by days when you are convinced it is doing the opposite of what you want just to spite you. This is the phase when a lot of people turn back; the key is to embrace it. You will not always be able to get the look you are going for but you can have fun with it and if you relax and allow yourself, this is where you gain more confidence with the locing process.

Teenage Locs: Source

Stage 4 – Mature Locs

Your locs are thickening up and have finally dropped. They don't need as much re-twisting and have settled in. You will begin to see more consistent growth because each loc has intertwined and contracted into a cylindrical shape. Some loosely coiled hair textures may retain a small curl at the end of the locs (as in my case), but most will probably be closed at the ends.

(This stage is usually reached within 16-18 months)

Stage 5 – Rooted - Beyond Mature locs

Your locs don't need frequent re-twisting because your hair is mostly now growing from the base directly into the loc. By this stage, your locs should be strong, thick and healthy.

Actress Dakore

Starting Locs

There are a variety of methods to start your locs depending on the length and texture of your hair.

Comb Coils

Hair is sectioned and is twisted into coils using a comb. This is usually done on shorter hair. 

Comb Coils: Source

Single Twists

Hair is sectioned and rolled between the palms or twisted round the finger. This is usually achieved on hair that is longer than 2 inches. 

Single Twists: Source

Two-Strand Twist

Hair is sectioned and is twisted using a two-strand method.  This can be achieved on hair of any length, usually more than 2 inches.

Two Strand Twists: Source

Braid Extensions

This method is achieved on hair that has been styled in braids or twists that have hair extensions added to it.  When the hair has grown out, the new growth is twisted using palm rolling or a similar twisting method.

"Braid Locs": Source

Loc Extensions

In this method, hair is braided and extension hair is wrapped around the braid to resemble a loc. You can keep the extension in or trim it as your locs grow out. Many people like this method because it gives the look of a matured loc instantly.

Loc Extension: Source

Freeform Locs 

This method is achieved by seperating the hair into clusters and leaving the new growth to its own devices. With this method, locs can sometimes end up marrying at the root (when two or more locs fuse together at the root).

Freeform Locs: Source

Washing Starter and Baby Locs

There is a lot of misguided information out there regarding the frequency of washing your locs during the early stages of your journey. The initial coil, twist or braid will obviously hold its shape for longer if you don’t wash your hair for three months but the goal is to LOC YOUR HAIR, not hold a perfect comb coil for as long as possible. That aside, dirty hair is just… gross!

Some locticians will suggest that you avoid washing your hair in the first four weeks. The key word here is “avoid”. Depending on your lifestyle this might not be an option. You could do a herbal rinse or clean your scalp with an astringent like witch hazel or Sea Breeze but overall my personal belief is that its better to wash your hair than spend weeks raking your nails into your scalp due to dry sweat and oil buildup.

For starter locs, the easiest way to wash your hair will depend on your hair texture and how you started them. I have a fairly loose curl structure and I started comb coils with a loctician the first time around. During the first wash (about 2-3 weeks after the initial styling) we thoroughly washed my scalp, while avoiding too much disruption of the comb coils. The shampoo was scrunched into my hair and then rinsed and scrunched out after thoroughly rinsing my scalp.

This time around I started my locs myself with a two-strand twist and washed my hair a week later. I started off by wetting my hair completely, then applying the shampoo to my scalp with my fingertips, taking care not to use too much but distributing it well. I then put my hair into four ponytails and applied a little shampoo to each one before massaging gently but thoroughly with the palms of my hands. Once finished, I removed the ponytails and rinsed my hair by scrunching the water out, taking care to disrupt the twists as little as possible. You can of course leave the ponytails in while rinsing depending on your preference. Two of my smaller twists unraveled during the initial wash but I simply retwisted the ends before palm rolling.

Another option if you are worried about your hair unraveling is to use a stocking or mesh cap over your starter locs. Apply the shampoo using a nozzle bottle and then agitate with the palm of your hand instead of your fingertips, before rinsing well through the cap. Obviously this technique is not as thorough as having access to your whole head but it’s cleaner than avoiding water altogther.

After washing, I palm roll and clip my hair and then air dry or sit under a hooded dryer. Air-drying usually means that I have washed my hair in the early evening and I’m staying home, as my hair takes aaaaaages to dry.

Finally, some tips to get you started

• I avoided using a conditioner in my locs the first two months after starting the second time around because I have a fairly soft hair texture (conditioner is a detangler, and its purpose is to do the opposite of locing). However, this was not strictly necessary.
• After washing, make sure your hair dries completely. Constant damp hair can encourage mould in your locs and believe me you do not want that!
• Don't retwist your hair too often or you will end up with breakage.
• Always sleep in a satin scarf/stocking cap to avoid losing moisture and natural oils into your cotton pillowcase.
• DON’T USE BEESWAX. I cannot stress this enough. Beeswax is horrible. It’s too thick and heavy for natural hair, prevents proper airflow within the loc and will often trap lint causing your locs to look dirty. If your loctician pulls out a jar of the buzzy wax, scream “Oh no you di’int!” while running in the opposite direction.
• Use a dark towel when washing your hair to avoid light coloured lint sticking to your locs.
• An apple cider vinegar rinse will help soothe an itchy scalp and has the added benefit of balancing the pH of your hair and removing buildup that can result from the use of styling products. Rinsing will also close the cuticle scales, which cover and protect the surface of each hair shaft, leaving it smoother and shinier.

Feel free to write in if you have any questions for Fiona, and make sure you follow her on Twitter!

It's been a long time, shouldn't have left you...

 

Yes people, sorry for leaving it so long again. I'm currently on a trip I like to refer to as "Hair Tour 2012". I will blog about it eventually, but you know what I'm like, so for more timely updates you can follow on twitter (@kinkyapothecary). But the bottom line is I'm caught up in a number of things so have really not had a chance to spend time on the blog.

I have a lot to catch up on: some more natural features; the conclusion of the 30 days 30 ways which I will make sure I get round to watermarking TODAY and eventually upload (doing and documenting that challenge didn't pose any problems. Uploading and reporting back, however, seems to have become the bane of my life); a number of "Kinky Hair: 101" and "How the rest of the world does it" posts drafted, and which just need editing and posting.

Also there are loads of new products in stock so I need to update the "shop the apothecary" tab. So much to do, so little time.

But I'll get it all up ... soon! And this just means you have loads to look forward to.

Hope all's well with everyone!

Natural hair in the Nigerian Diaspora... Geri

Hi guys,

I haven't posted one of these up in a while even though I have quite a few lined up, so best get back to it!

Who better to get us back into the swing of things than one of my new blogosphere bestos Geri, aka Geraldine the Great. Geri has been able to retain a phenomenal amount of length in the 3 years she's been natural. Anyone who thinks "black hair doesn't grow" should check out the pictures on her awesome blog, Geraldine The Great. 

I first noticed her hair on the Zina Saro-Wiwa natural hair documentary I posted on the FB page, and recognised her immediately when she was featured on BGLH not too long after. She says we're hair twins because we have similar textures. I say "I WISH!"

Here's what she has to say...that is, if you can tear your eyes away from the pictures of her hair...

Photo courtesy of subject

Nde wo!  Mokom!  Ba wo ni!  Sannu!  Hey guys!  My name is Geri.  I'm a writer, blogger, and makeup artist.

On where I'm from 

Ah!  I love and hate this question.  When you're a Nigerian living abroad, there's always a seemingly overly-complicated answer to it, that some people just don't understand.  They want you to say, I'm A and I'm from B.  Simple.  But for me it's this: I was born in Alabama, but I've lived in Atlanta, Ga for most of my life.  Most importantly, I'm a child of two Igbo parents, so I'm from Owerri, Imo State, and I currently live in New Jersey.

Photo courtesy of subject

My natural hair journey

Photo courtesy of subject

I've been natural for over 3 years. Why did I decide to go natural? I've got two answers to this. The short answer, is that a weave that was left in too long, severely thinned out and weakened my hair.  I swore to never allow anyone to do my hair ever again- weaving or relaxing.  

The long answer is that naturally, my self-imposed restriction led to months of new growth, where I finally began to question the whole point of relaxers on my hair in the first place.  When I couldn't honestly answer that question for myself, and after I researched and found out that I had been religiously adhering to a practice with no real knowledge of why, I decided I owed myself the task of finding out exactly what my hair was about, without a chemical straightener.  

My big chop experience

Photo courtesy of subject

I didn't set a specific date for my BC.  I transitioned with kinky twists, and after I spent an embarrassing amount of time removing them one night, I decided to go ahead and take the leap in cutting all of my relaxed ends off. 

I was definitely excited, apprehensive, afraid, and everything else in between.  I was taking a leap into the unknown, so I wrestled with a lot of confusing emotions.  Once I was done, I was definitely more excited than afraid, about embarking on a new adventure.

How people reacted to my hair

My boyfriend supported my decision to go natural.  He always says that he doesn't really have a stake in what's on my head, but rather in what I'm about as a human being.  But today, I think he's secretly actually very invested in my natural hair. Lol. He is my biggest supporter.  

My family members had varying reactions about my hair.  I don't even think my father noticed that my most of my hair had disappeared and was replaced by a curly twa.  My younger sister was and still is extremely supportive.  She's also natural.  My mother, brother, and older sister were just shocked that I cut my hair.  I think they were more taken aback by the length of my new hair, and not the texture.  I also don't think they understood what it meant to be chemical free.  My mom actually thought I had cut my hair because of the recession and that I was sporting a jerry curl instead!

I can't say that I've encountered any challenges that have inhibited me from wearing my natural hair.  I think I've been somewhat lucky in that regard, and my heart goes out to anyone who experiences any challenges that prevent them from wearing their hair in their natural state.  Please hang in there.

I have, however, definitely received my fair share of unsolicited comments about what I should do with my hair, or why I'm wearing my hair this way.  I've also gotten hair molested by my boss at work, who once announced to anyone within earshot, that he could use my hair as a soft mop to clean his floor, and that he also thought wearing my hair in a puff was unprofessional. 

Photo courtesy of subject

My natural hair in Nigeria

Photo courtesy of subject

I was in Naija last Christmas, but I wore a wig for an entire month.  I had braids underneath the wig that I kept planning to undo, so I could rock a huge braid out, but after dealing with the interesting harmattan dust coupled with the humidity, I opted for the easier route, and hid my hair under a wig. 

Simply put, I didn't really know what to expect, so I relied on my backup wig and head ties.  My hair benefited from the protective style, but I also didn't learn how to handle my hair in Nigeria.  So, the next time I go back home, my natural hair will be the most memorable thing about me, as I will be wearing it out constantly.  

As far as receiving any comments, the first time I co-washed my hair, my aunt accosted me in the hallway, and demanded I explain to her why my hair looked the way it did.  She wanted to know why I didn't just relax it.  After my brother and I, explained to her that I preferred having natural hair, she relented and stated that I was natural because my hair resembled those of the Fulanis that lived and worked in Port Harcourt.  I think it was the only way she could reconcile why I didn't have a relaxer.

My views on natural hair before I went natural

Before I went natural, I was the perfect relaxed girl.  I followed my stylist's advice and strictly kept to my appointments.  Natural hair definitely flew below my radar, which is ironic, because I had been a natural child when we lived in Nigeria.  

Photo courtesy of subject

There is such a thing as mental conditioning, and even if we aren't aware of it, we are all subject to it, because we are affected by the same things in the world.  I relaxed my hair because I had been trained to do it without question.  Because I robotically relaxed for over 20 years of my life, I had no real views about natural hair at all. 

My regimen  

I'm a low manipulator.  So, I shampoo and detangle my hair, about once a month.  I have dense, bra strap length hair with tiny coils, so the less manipulation I subject my hair to, the easier it is for me, and the better it is for my hair retention.  

Photo courtesy of subject

I have no set cowash schedule, so it varies how often I do it.  Most of the times, I just pay attention to the way my hair feels and looks.  If there is excessive buildup, I will shampoo with Giovanni Tea Tree Triple Treat shampoo, and if my hair feels extremely dry, then I cowash with Aussie Moist or Vo5 conditioner.  My hair loves creamy moisturizers and oils, so I rotate coconut, avocado, or olive oils, and I also use my conditioners as leave ins.

Photo courtesy of subject

Geri on the Internet

In addition to my blog, you can find me on Facebook. You can also follow me on twitter and instagram @Gerimua.

(PS: Geri has also recently started her own youtube channel. Make sure you rate and subscribe!)

Advice for new naturals

Please do not let your doubts, fears, or anxieties, prevent you from standing apart.  You are brilliant enough to shine just on your own, but also know that you are a part of a global community who embraces all parts of you.  There aren't any rules to this natural hair thing, as you are already stepping outside of them, just by being true to who you are.  

Photo courtesy of subject

Thanks Geri. Now I'm back off to your blog to do a little more stalking!

Kinky Hair 101: Protective and low-manipulation styling

Source

Most people reading this will already familiar with the concept of protective styling, what it entails and how you can benefit from it, but I feel it is my Corporate Social Responsibility to carry on with all the basics for any newbies who might happen to stumble across this blog. Hi there! *waves*


Anyway, I mentioned in one of my last few posts that I have benefited from not doing much with my hair recently. Time constraints have meant that I have not really had a chance to fuss with it much. I wash every 7-10 days as usual (sometimes stretching to 14 days). I then put them in fat twists, which I wear for a couple of days pinned up.

If I'm going anywhere where I need to look slightly decent, I distract with a nice scarf or other accessory.

When the weekend rolls around, I either undo and braid for a braidout, as illustrated in previous post, or undo and re-twist with product for a twistout, allow it to set at least overnight and then wear the twist/braidout for a couple of days until humidity has completely taken its toll. Then I put it in some sort of updo, like a bun or flat twists, for a couple of days until the next wash day rolls around.


Why have I benefited from this?

Essentially, what I have been doing is protective or low-manipulation styling. Most naturals with tighter, kinkier textures tend to benefit from leaving their hair alone. And the ones who have managed any significant amount of length retention tend to be in protective styles about 99% of the time. (Yes, I just employed a knack I have for pulling statistics out of thin air, but for example, check out Cipriana from Urban Bush Babes, or Mwedzi on Youtube)

This is because kinky hair is so fragile, that every time it is handled is an opportunity to damage it. Our hair therefore tends to thrive if put away, as you are preventing it rubbing on clothing or other articles. It is particularly helpful if your ends are tucked away as this helps minimize splits and knots, which would eventually need to be chopped out of your hair. 

Forms of low-manipulation or protective styling

As I mentioned, updos and buns are protective styles as they keep your ends tucked away and free from damage. Strictly speaking, twists on long hair are not strictly "protective" if worn down and allowed to rub on your clothing, however you do benefit from the fact that once the twists are in, you will not have to keep re-doing your hair and risk over-manipulation. 

Twistouts and braidouts even when worn loose are, in my opinion semi-protective styles, because from stretching your hair by twisting and braiding, you are minimizing tangles and also locking in moisture (which travels much more easily down a stretched strand of hair than a tightly coiled one), reducing possible breakage. (Although watch out for shrinkage in this humidity!)

For ideas on protective styling, look back at this post on youtube links. And take some time out to look through other videos for tutorials.

Protective styling may not suit everyone

As with everything, not all rules apply 100%. Some people, particularly those with looser curls, may not find protective styling necessary, and can wash and go to their hearts content. 

Others may have tightly curled hair, but for them retaining length is not a priority, and this is fine. 

I was much more strict about protective styling when I first embarked on this healthy hair journey, but have recently been far more relaxed about my hair in general. Sometime last year, I reached the conclusion that there is no point having all this hair if I can't show it off once in a while. So if I have time to play with my hair, I do tend to wear it out more often (my recent protective styling frenzy has, as I mentioned, mainly been for convenience). 

However I was very aware that this would be to the detriment of my length retention, and I definitely weathered a lot more damage than usual last year and had to trim more often, but I was o.k. with that. I draw the line at frequent wash and go's, however. 

So whether you protective style or not is your choice: it is just important to be aware of the trade-off, for most people, between wearing your hair out all the time and growing your hair long.

A couple of important things to think about when protective styling
1/ Again, I repeat: no two things work exactly the same for 2 people. So watch Youtube tutorials to get ideas, but at the end of the day, you have to figure out a routine that best suits YOU. For e.g. some people leave their twists in for up to 6 weeks. I have never dared to attempt going more than 3! 

Another example: when I began attempting protective styles, I would watch people with a looser texture on Youtube bun their hair wet, and I would try and mimic it. This didn't work well at all for my texture, and I have since found that for me, it is best to bun my hair when it is in twists, or when it is already stretched, e.g. an old twistout.

2/ As I mentioned in my braids post, there is no point in doing a protective style if any process of that style causes damage to your hair. For e.g. there is no point in blowdrying if you’re breaking it along the way, not moisturizing while it is in the style, or leaving the style in so long that your hair will knot, tangle and break as you’re taking it out.

Incidentally, Miss Fizz from Leave In The Kinks (protective styler extraordinaire) just did this post with notes on protective styling. Make sure to check it out.


Until next time!